Friday, July 2, 2010

Be Bop a Re Bop Rhubarb Tart

I suppose I'm a bit tardy in posting this, as for most of the country rhubarb season was over eons ago. However, if you are clever you will have stashed away chunks of those jewel-like stalks in your freezer to whip out whenever you please and this recipe will still be of use to you.


It has come to my attention that I must be growing up. There are lots of of things that lead me to believe this - rapidly approaching 30, starting a business, finding grey hairs on my head, but perhaps one of the most telling events is my growing fondness for things I disdained in my youth. Last summer's obsession with plums may have been the advent of this newfound maturity. Then came my conversion to parsley use. Next up was prunes. And now rhubarb. You get the idea.


Truth be told rhubarb began to woo me last July when I bravely turned it into a one vegetable (yes, it's really a vegetable, just like tomatoes are really a fruit!) crisp with no supporting cast such as a strawberry to be seen. But this, this is the year of true rhubarb love. It made it's debut atop the best pancakes ever , has been gently stewed with (albeit frozen) strawberries then spooned atop vanilla cake garnished with a bit of creme fraiche. It has accompanied creamy panna cotta on it's journey to my stomach and most recently made it's way into this tart. Rhubarb is so wonderful in fact that this man sings a song about it on his radio show.


I am also a sucker for anything with nuts. Especially if those nuts are ground up and mixed into a batter with things like butter! and sugar! and eggs! oh my!!

This tart is one of my favorites because unlike a standard custard-based fruit tart you can make this any time of year with whatever fruit you happen to have on hand, frozen or fresh. To boot the only work involved is making and rolling out the tart dough but I have been known to simply pat it into a tart shell (this works especially well for tartlets) and leave the rolling pin in the drawer. It seems to me that almonds and rhubarb pair especially well, however this tart would be just as tasty with raspberries, sour cherries, plums, apricots, pretty much anything you can get your hands on.


Rhubarb Frangipane Tart
A compilation of recipes from two of my favorite books: Crust from Suzanne Goin's Sunday Suppers at Lucques and Filling from the Tartine Bakery Cookbook

Crust (Pate Sucree): Yields dough for 2 10-inch crusts
I like this recipe because you can make the dough and immediately line your shell. Most recipes call for chilling the dough for at least an hour. Let's just admit it, there are days we just don't have the patience for that.

1/4 c heavy cream
2 extra-large egg yolks
2 3/4 c plus 2 Tbsp all purpose flour
1/4 c plus 3Tbsp sugar
1/4 tsp kosher salt
2 sticks (8oz) unsalted butter

Whisk the cream and egg yolks together in a small bowl.
In a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook, combine the flour, sugar, salt, and butter on medium speed until you have a coarse meal. Gradually add the cream and yolks, and mix just until combined. Do not overwork the dough.. Transfer the dough to a large work surface and bring it together with your hands to incorporate completely (use the heel of your hand to smear the dough on the counter as you push it away from your body, this is called fraisage). Divide the dough in half , shape into 1" thick discs, and wrap one of them to freeze and use later.

If the dough is too soft, put in the refrigerator for 5-10 minutes to firm up a little. If the dough is manageable, place it on a lightly floured work surface, sprinkle a little flour over the dough, and roll it out into a 1/4-inch thick circle, flouring as necessary. Starting at one side, roll and wrap the dough around the rolling pin to pick it up. Unroll the dough over a 10-inch tart pan. Gently fit the dough loosely into the pan, lifting the edges and pressing the dough into the corners with your fingers. To remove the excess dough, roll the rolling pin lightly over the top of the tart pan for a nice clean edge, or work your way around the edge, pinching off any excess dough with your fingers. Chill for 1 hour (or if your name is Amy, throw it into the freezer until it is firm, 10-15 minutes).

Filling (Frangipane Cream): Yields 3 cups

2 c (7 oz) sliced almonds
1 c (7oz) sugar
3/4 c plus 2Tbsp (7 oz) unsalted butter at room temperature
pinch kosher salt
1Tbsp plus 1 tsp brandy
2 large eggs
2 Tbsp whole milk

1 1/2-2 c rhubarb or other fruit

In a food processor, combine the almonds with 1/4 c of the sugar and process until finely ground. Set aside.

In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat the butter on medium speed until creamy. Add the remaining 3/4 c sugar and mix to incorporate. Add the almond-sugar mixture and beat until thoroughly combined. Add the salt, brandy, and 1 egg and mix until incorporated. Add the remaining egg and the milk and mix until light and fluffy.

This cream will keep in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to one week.

To assemble the tart:

Preheat the oven to 375 F.

Fill the tart shell with 3 cups of frangipane cream (I only had a 9-inch tart pan so I used 2 1/2 cups of filling and it was plenty). Smooth the top with a rubber spatula. Arrange the fruit on top. Place the tart on a baking sheet. Bake the tart until the crust is golden brown and the filling is set, about 1 hour and 20 minutes (if your filling is browning too fast loosely cover the tart with foil. You want the crust to be fully cooked so don't skimp on the full bake time). The filling should feel firm and slightly springy to the touch and the fruit should be tender. Transfer to a wire rack and let cool. This tart is best served warm or at room temperature. It will keep in the refrigerator for up to 3 days, however it is so delicious I'd be willing to bet it won't make it that long!

Yields 8-10 servings

1 comment:

  1. Delicious food accompanied a good story, you get me every time!

    ReplyDelete